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AUGUST 2010
GETTIN' OUT ON THE WATER
Don’t Have A Boat? No Problem!
By: Deborah Williams
Western New York is blessed with world-class lakes, rivers, canals and waterfalls. Water is what made Buffalo a great 19th century city and water is what offers fantastic recreational opportunities today across the Buffalo-Niagara region.
Even without your own boat, there is a wondrous array of tours and boat rentals available. It would be hard to find another region in the entire world with such an abundance of top-rated boating opportunities.
Maid of the Mist
Of course, the most famous of all the boat tours is surely the Maid of the Mist now celebrating its 164th year. The Maid of the Mist has become as much a symbol of Niagara as the Falls themselves.
Theodore Roosevelt, our greatest conservationist president, called the Maid of the Mist boat ride at Niagara Falls “the only way fully to realize the Grandeur of the Great Falls of Niagara.”
There are four Maid of the Mist boats that can be boarded on either side of the border for the 30-minute ride. (Parking on the New York side is half the cost of the Canadian side.) Bright blue plastic raincoats are provided and they make nice souvenirs.
It is hard to imagine a more intense way to experience the power of the falls than on this ride, as the captain expertly guides the boat past the American and Bridal Veil Falls and almost into the thunderous deluge of the Horseshoe Falls.
The roar of the cataract drowns out the drone of the vessel’s twin, 250-horse-powered engines. Spray stings the face and hands and blurs vision. The boat rocks as the engines fight for control in the current.
There is a moment on the trip, just a moment, when the world seems to be coming to a watery end.
We’re on the bow huddled next to other passengers. Torrents of water are cascading all around, the spray is blinding and everyone seems to be screaming in pure delight.
Of course, it is perfectly safe, and only once has one of the Maids’ cork life preservers been used.
Back in the summer of 1960, seven-year-old Roger Woodward was swept over the falls after a boat he was in stalled and broke up on the rocks near the brink. He plunged over at a speed of some 75 miles an hour. He was wearing an orange life jacket so Maid of the Mist passengers spotted the child quickly and the captain threw the preserver. Roger caught it on the third try.
Plucked from the turbulent waters, he became the first person to survive without any protective device such as a barrel. He returned 20 years later on his honeymoon to view the Falls from a more conventional angle!
• Maid of the Mist, 716-284-8897, www.maidofthemist.com . Tours open to all ages including those with disabilities and anyone using a wheelchair. Plastic coats are provided. Boarding on either the New York or Ontario side. Tours through Oct. 24. No reservations.
Whirlpool Jet Boats
Always wanted to experience world famous rapids? Since 1992, Whirlpool Jet Boats has been attracting thrill seekers from around the globe for an experience like no other. The rapids of the Niagara Gorge are commonly referred to as the “Mount Everest” of whitewater rapids.
The one-hour tours are considered the world’s single most popular whitewater tour and the vessels are the most technologically advanced whitewater vessels.
There are seven “wet jet” boats plus the futuristic looking Jet Dome. The domed boat has pneumatic doors that open up on both sides during tours that offer unrivaled views of the Niagara Gorge, the power plants and Whirlpool. When going through the rapids the doors are closed to ensure that everyone stays dry. The Jet Dome allows children as young as four years and 40 inches tall.
Everyone dons water shoes and life jackets. Ponchos are also provided but they are optional. Some of the younger cruisers arrived in their swimsuits well prepared for their watery adventure. In cooler weather, sweaters and splash suits are also provided.
This is not a ride for the faint of heart or anyone with back or heart problems, pregnant women or children under six or shorter than 44 inches. On the “wet jet” tours you will get wet — the closer to the front of the boat, the wetter you will get.
After our boat glided out of Niagara-on-the-Lake and past the villages of Youngstown and Lewiston, it sped up into an area of the river off limits to all boats except for the jet boats. After passing the massive power plants, we reached the famous Devil’s Hole Rapids.
The views, the rapids, and the water of the spectacular seven-mile long canyon cut out of the escarpment by the turbulent currents of the Niagara River below Niagara Falls, all make for a most intense and exhilarating experience.
• Whirlpool Jet Boat, 905-468-4800 or 888-438-4444, www.whirlpooljet.com . Boarding at Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Falls, Ontario and at Water Street Landing, at the foot of Center Street, in Lewiston, New York Everyone must sign a waiver. Be sure to bring towels and a change of clothing. Changing rooms are available. Reservations required.
Erie Canal Cruises
The whistle blew — making our departure official — we were off on our canal adventure. Soon, the call came forth from Captain Mike: “Low bridge, everyone down.”
We obeyed the command and immediately sat down. Good thing, since there was just a foot or so of clearance as we motored under the bridge.
We are aboard Lockview V, operated by Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Tours, motoring along the Erie Canal. As we traveled, owner and Captain Mike Murphy recounted tales of the early canal as he has since he started offering canal cruises in 1987.
It was DeWitt Clinton who had the vision to construct the canal. The canal officially opened October 26, 1825, when Gov. Clinton, his wife and a party of dignitaries stepped aboard the canal boat Seneca Chief at Buffalo. The Erie Canal was an immediate success.
The canal very soon became so choked with boats that it needed an enlargement. But even that wasn’t enough and in 1905 a completely new canal was begun. The canal boats were able to use steam power, so the new canal made use of natural waterways, as well as parts of the existing canal. This is the canal that thousands of pleasure boaters use today.
The original canal locks in Lockport, hewn mostly out of solid rock, have attracted poets, engineers, historians and artists. When Gen. Marquis de Lafayette visited the area in 1825, he proclaimed the locks to be one of the greatest engineering feats of the world.
Now it was time for the highlight of our canal cruise —locking through Locks 34 and 35 in order to be raised 49.5 feet — the elevation of the Niagara Escarpment. These are only set of double locks on the Erie Canal.
The massive gates — 56 tons each and replaced in 1989 as part of ongoing restoration of the canal system — closed behind us. Then the lock started to fill up, like a big bathtub. It took about 15 minutes to fill. The upper lock gates were opened once the water level in the lock chamber was the same as in the upper pool.
We then glided under the widest bridge in the United States. The steel bridge is 399 feet wide and at Captain Mike’s invitation, we called out to hear our voices’ echo.
As we motored along at a top speed of 10 mph, old canal songs played on the boat’s sound system:
I’ve got a mule, her name is Sal.
Fifteen miles on the Erie Canal.
She’s a good ol’ worker and a good ol’ pal,
Fifteen miles on the Erie Canal.
• Lockport Locks & Erie Canal Cruises, 716-433-6155, www.lockportlocks.com . Tours open to all ages and abilities. Two hour sightseeing cruises through October. Snacks and drinks available on board. Private charters available. Reservations recommended.
Miss Buffalo II
The Miss Buffalo II provides an opportunity to explore Buffalo’s rich maritime history from the vantage point of a comfortable vessel. The 200-passenger boat offers everyone a relaxing two-hour cruise on the Buffalo River, the Niagara River, Lake Erie and Black Rock Canal. It even includes a bonus trip through the canal lock. This is the 39th season for this boat and her predecessors.
Docked at the Erie Basin Marina, the boat glides past the Buffalo Lighthouse. Our guide tells us that the lighthouse dates back to 1833 and was dubbed the Chinaman’s Light. It is the oldest building on Buffalo’s waterfront and is one of the oldest on the Great Lakes.
Out on Lake Erie and the Niagara River we learn that these waterways once had vital roles in the hostilities between Great Britain and the United States during the War of 1812. During Prohibition rum running between Canada and the United States was a lucrative business.
Divers are still pulling up bottles dumped overboard when government agents were getting too close to the boats.
Thankfully, for those who wish an adult beverage, those days are gone and the drinks are available on board along with soft drinks and snacks.
Looming ahead of us is the Peace Bridge, connecting Buffalo and Fort Erie, Ontario. The bridge opened on June 1, 1927 to great fanfare and has carried millions of cars and trucks over the years. Most everyone on our boat, especially the younger set, enjoyed screaming under the bridge and listening for the echo.
Cruising under the bridge does offer a different perspective on this old but still graceful international crossing.
Our next waterway was the Black Rock Channel. It provides a protected waterway for all types of vessels around the reefs, rapids and fast currents that exist in the upstream portion of the Niagara River. The Black Rock Lock permits boats to travel between Buffalo and Tonawanda Harbor and then on the Erie Canal and potentially onto the waterways of the world.
Our journey took us through the lock and two lift bridges and then back under the Peace Bridge. We cruised by the futuristic looking Frank Lloyd Wright Boathouse at the West Side Rowing Club and back into the Erie Basin Marina.
• Miss Buffalo II, 716-856-6696, www.buffaloharborcruises.com . Cruises depart from Erie Basin Marina. Tours open to all ages and abilities. Sightseeing cruises through Labor Day. Snacks and drinks available on board. Private charters offered through Oct. Party cruises. Reservations recommended.
Spirit of Buffalo
If you spot a crowd of pint-sized pirates at the Erie Canal Harbor Central Wharf, don’t worry. They come in peace but are looking for entertainment and treasure aboard the Spirit of Buffalo. It’s the perfect setting for a pirate cruise and other more traditional sailings.
Journey back in time and discover the glorious adventure of traditional sailing on this classic 73-foot topsail schooner with magnificent red sails. Long-time sailors who spend winters sailing in the Caribbean, Capt. Richard Hillman and first mate Kathy Hillman operate the Spirit of Buffalo.
Although children and babies are allowed on regular cruises, the 90-minute pirate cruises offer an especially memorable experience for the entire family. The captain and crew come dressed in proper pirate attire and everyone clearly loves being a pirate for the day.
The fun begins on the dock with face painting and pirate stickers for the kids. The pirates then march down the dock carrying a skull and crossbones flag ready to be hoisted atop the mast. Once on board, the young sailors learn about the ways of pirates of centuries ago.
After motoring past the Erie Basin Marina and the Buffalo Lighthouse, it was time to hoist the sails. The young sailors were divided into teams — one team on the port side and the other are on the starboard.
“Heave ho” echoed across the harbor as the pirate crew hauled up the sails. Once the sails were fully set, the motor was turned off and we were sailing just as 19th century Great Lakes schooners did.
Now it was time for a treasure hunt that ended with treats that the pirates picked from a large chest. Next up was a make your boat competition. Each pirate was given Popsicle sticks, aluminum foil and duct tape. The results were most creative, ranging from a canoe to a barge to a sailboat. Each boat had to float and the winner was the boat that could hold the most lead pieces.
All too soon it was time to take down the sails and once again the young passengers were ready to show their muscles by helping the crew. Pirate songs from times gone by rang out as we cruised back to the harbor.
• Spirit of Buffalo, 716-796-7210, www.spiritofbuffalo.com . Regular and children’s pirate cruises through October 1. Sunset, wine tasting and other cruises offered. Reservations recommended.
Other area boating opportunities include:
• Buffalo Harbor Kayak Rentals — canoe, kayak rentals and guided tours. 716-228-9153. www.bfloharborkayak.com .
• Sailing on Lake Erie — lessons, rentals and sailing excursions, 716-880-5154, www.sevenseasailing.com .
• Sailing on Moondance, a 65-passenger catamaran on Lake Erie, 716-854-7245, www.moondancecat.com .
• Sailing on Lake Ontario, 877-754-1812, http://historiclewiston.org/blackpearl/index.html
• Canoeing and kayaking, rentals, guided tours and instruction, 1000 Ellicott Creek Rd., Tonawanda, 716-213-0350, www.pathspeakspaddles.com.
Deborah Williams is a veteran travel writer from Holland, NY. Her latest travel guide is “The Erie Canal: Exploring New York’s Great Canals,” Countryman Press. Visit www.deborahwilliams.com .
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